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St. John, the American luxury fashion house was established in 1962 on the foundation of the elegant and versatile knit dress.
Since then, the brand may have evolved to include other offerings, from gorgeous, classic tweed two-pieces (think Jackie O) and statement-yet-understated gowns, but their brand pillars remain the same. This label stands for considered designs, quality fabrics, exceptions craftsmanship (just look at the tailoring) and of course, plenty of sophistication.
With all this rich history choosing a Creative Director was no mean feat, and this is where Zoe Turner comes into play, as she was brought into the fold at the end of last year. Having previously been with the Max Mara Fashion Group and Dior (she worked under both John Galliano and Raf Simons), she has 20 years’ experience within the technical fashion and knitwear realm.
The Fall 2020 collection marks Tuner’s debut line for the label, and aesthetically it’s an the intersection of femininity and power. Think oversized leather jackets, on-point tailored suiting and of course, textured tweed and delicate draping which the brand is loved for.
Turner discusses her chapter for the St. John brand story.
Felicity Carter: How, when, why did you get into the industry?
Zoe Turner: I’ve always been drawn to this industry for one simple reason, I want to make all women feel strong and beautiful. Growing up I saw my mother wearing amazing Ossie Clark and Biba dresses. She made me dream and fall in love with fashion. I earned my master’s degree from London’s Royal College of Art. Upon graduating in 2002, I joined Alberta Ferretti as a designer, where I worked alongside the Italian founder and creative director for four years. I was then recruited to Paris to join Christian Dior Couture, first as Senior Designer under John Galliano, then as Head Designer, Director of Knitwear under Raf Simons. After spending nearly a decade at Dior, I returned to Italy to work for Max Mara Fashion Group, before my current venture as Creative Director of St. John.
FC: How would you sum up the aesthetic of St. John?
ZT: St. John is the epitome of American luxury, that is why I was so drawn and attracted to the brand. The house was founded in 1962 on the premise of a simple, elegant and versatile knit dress. The brand has evolved over the years, but the foundation and the DNA remains the same as it did when that dress was created. St. John is built on great American design, understated and timeless elegance, unsurpassed quality and craftsmanship, and the remarkable women who wear it.
FC: What is luxury to you?
ZT: To me, luxury is careful craftsmanship and intelligent, thoughtful design. At St. John, luxury is at the base of every silhouette, it speaks in the details – like the expert tailoring of a St. John jacket or in the unique knitting used to create a St. John dress. Sometimes these details are understated, they need to be seen and felt in order to be fully understood.
FC: Who is your customer?
ZT: She is a strong, independent, forward thinking woman; who appreciates beautiful clothes.
FC: Tell us about what your role encompasses…
ZT: My role dives into all facets of the brand. My position covers everything from design packaging to retail environment, to our multimedia presence and overall brand communication. I want to re-energize and evolve St. John while continuing to remain true to its roots. I want more women to see what our American luxury house really has to offer.
FC: Currently which is your favourite piece and how do you wear it/them?
ZT: Our leather trench from Fall 2020 is my favorite editorial piece, and from a more day-to day perspective, we have a black knit jacket with gold buttons paired with plisse pants that I love as an outfit.
Shop the collection at luxury retailers worldwide and through the brand’s ecommerce site stjohnknits.com.
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