Andy Kropa/AP
A slightly more nuanced guide to a very simple haircut.
Getting a buzz cut might seem straightforward—turn on the clippers, shear everything off, et voila, buzz cut. But no. It’s slightly more involved. For one, the best buzz cuts have clean edges, says Dom Williams, barber at
at AONO Barbershop in London. “For this reason, you really oughta visit a barber to get a proper cut—a buzz that’s got a little styling, as opposed transforming into a DIY human tennis ball.
Below are four of the best buzz cuts according to Williams. (All of which can qualify as a pretty-boy buzz cut to further enhance your beard or personal style.) But before you get a buzz, heed his warning: “If your head shape is slightly bumpy, you should avoid going too short,” he says. “Anything above a 1-grade on the clippers is perfect for you, since it won’t accentuate your head shape.”
And please, if you’re going to wear a beard with your buzz, you must honor the correct beard-to-hair ratio.
The Induction Buzz
As seen on Jay-Z
The induction buzz is the shortest you can get, and leaves just 1.5mm of hair all across your head. It’s best on guys with dark hair, so that you can still see the definition of stubble. Your barber will clean the edges with a straight razor, too, to fully carve clean lines and definition into the style. “It stands out as a cleaner and sharper looking buzz,” Williams says of how intentional the outlines are. “Ask your barber for a 0.5 all over, or a 0 if you wish to go that little bit shorter.”
The Jarhead Cut
As seen on Nick Jonas
This one is slightly longer than the induction buzz. It’s still one uniform grade all over the head, though, sans any fading or blending. And it might spare you from needing a straight razor cleanup around the perimeter, too, except for the neck. “It should be anything from a 1 to 2 grade on the clippers,” says Williams. “You could also try a grade 3 or 4 for longer buzz, which is known as the Butch cut,” so long as you clean up the neckline.
“Anything that requires a trim with scissors on the top or sides is, by the very definition, not a buzz cut,” says Williams. “If you want to measure the length, really it’s anything longer than 16mm, which requires a full scissor detail, is becoming a different style.” Seems obvious enough!
The Crew Cut
As seen on Wilmer Valderrama
This is the most classic buzz cut, and offers some variation between the sides and top. “The crew cut is again very short on the sides slightly longer on top,” says Williams. “Some even utilize a short scissor-cut fringe at the peak, to get a very small quiff going.” (And yes, this still qualifies as a buzz cut, even if you’re utilizing the scissors up top. It’s very short yet, and everything else except the top front is buzzed.) Try a 1 or 2 grade on the sides, and a 3 or 4 up top, or take your barber’s advice for the best blend on you.
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The Fade
As seen on Zayn Malik
This is as common as the crew cut of late. It involves a skin-tight fade above the ears that graduates into a short buzz. The top can be as long as the upper sides, or can blend into a crew cut. Ask your barber which type of fade will look better on you: a medium or low. (In reference to the amount of space the skin-tight fade occupies before it starts fading into the buzz.) “Fades look best when starting with 0 grade, or razor shaved,” says Williams.
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