From a TMZ tour bus to a seat at the Oscars: My search for elusive celebrity culture in Los Angeles

And by Hollywood, I don’t mean the Los Angeles neighborhood of roughly 78,000. I mean “Hollywood,” the idea. Hollywood the stand-in for ambitions of fame. Hollywood, “the beckoning El Dorado … Metropolis of make-believe,” in the words of Wellman’s show business movie. Hollywood, that place the resentful, like Aunt Mattie, pronounce with disgust.

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