CLEVELAND, Ohio – The buzz in the local dining world is focused on Michael’s Genuine Food and Drink.
We’ll say “world” and not “scene” here, because MGFD – the acronym ubiquitously stamped on servers’ attire – is taking a melting-pot approach. Dishes take on the extremely wide-ranging melting-pot flavors of the southern U.S. (hominy), the Middle East (falafel, spicy Moroccan lamb meatballs), Italian dishes (casarecce) and more. Throw in seafood options like a raw bar, and you’re set.
The don’t-miss spot is the chef’s table, a front-row view to the theater playing out before you. Chefs prepare foods, work the oven, and serve the line – never colliding with each other as the seamless dance goes on and on. (A full kitchen is out of view.)
The small-bite emphasis is wonderful in this restaurant, which opened in April in the vibrant Van Aken District.
Hominy is a great nosh, small bits of fried corn with chile and lime flavors yielding savory bites. It pairs well with drinks as you ponder your next course.
Octopus is a popular seller, but note: It has a serious kick. Bonus points for not frying this.
Golf-ball-sized falafel bites were fine but nothing unusual.
The pea toast was amazing. The ricotta is as light as whipped cream, the burrata fresh and creamy. The microgreens and radishes add a textural bitter contrast.
Putting eggs on everything these days has become, essentially, a restaurant requirement. The Woods Roasted Double Yolk is a ramekin filled with Greyere and chives and served with sourdough crostini. It’s a rich-tasting, messy egg-and-cheese concoction that cooks a bit more in the very hot vessel. It’s meant for scooping. While a dining pal and I enjoyed this, I felt it would be more appropriate on the brunch menu (which it is).
For entrees, halibut offered a study in contrasts: The fish was light and extremely flaky, and served with slightly undercooked chickpeas. The result is soft fish, firm beans and a pleasing bitterness from accompanying radishes.
A medium-well burger was seasoned well with a wonderful saltiness, charred on the outside and very juicy on the inside. Its bun crumbled as we ate.
Fettucine was served with short-rib sugo, the Bolognese blend incredibly tasty. This is the kind of dish that tastes even better the next day as leftovers, after the flavors steep overnight. Alas, we didn’t get that far.
Casarecce – a vegetarian pasta option with English pea, kale, green scape, spring pesto and Pecorino – was very fresh, with vegetables cooked perfectly. Just as pasta can be overdone, so can vegetables. This was spot on.
We couldn’t leave without trying a pizza. Mortadella pizza was unique; usually, if you find that Italian meat, it’s in a deli counter. We say ‘was’ because it was off the menu before our second visit. But other specialty pizzas include soppressata and pesto. The crust – not too thin, not too thick – bubbled up nicely from its stint in the oven, where it was watched carefully and turned appropriately by the attending chefs.
We skipped on dessert. A handful tempted (lemon pudding cake, chocolate chess pie with smoked almond, brulee strawberries and affogato). Also: Mitchell’s Ice Cream is available, served with a chocolate-chip cookie.
If you prefer a non-ice cream dessert, the offerings are there. If you want ice cream, pay your bill and walk a few feet to Mitchell’s, where you have an array of sizes and flavors in the heart of the Van Aken District.
Cleaning the plate: Restaurants keep popping up – some quietly, some with fanfare. Michael’s Genuine Food and Drink hit the culinary ground running, offering multiple cuisines in the Van Aken District. Nibble on hominy bites, enjoy the theater of the chef’s table, order a pizza. You’re not going to go wrong in this cozy spot in Shaker Heights.
Previous coverage: The design of dining – we talked with founder Michael Schwartz about his restaurant.
The vibe at MGFD
• It’s at the northwest corner of Chagrin Boulevard and Warrensville Center Road.
• Service on both visits was friendly and also helpful, as servers assisted an elderly dining pal with seating arrangements.
• Owner Michael Schwartz – who counts a James Beard award on his resume – curates the restaurant’s music. It’s not just jazz, it’s the genre from a specific era.
• It’s energetic, but the volume is not overwhelming.
• A small patio offers great people-watching fodder, as the restaurant sits near the Market Hall of eateries and shops.
• A pasta room also sits within view of the dining room.
• Wine comes in carafe sizes as well as by-the-glass and bottles, and the list is well-culled. The small beer list is OK, but it could be improved with more styles by season.
• A small free parking lot sits not far from the restaurant.
Taste Bites
Michael’s Genuine Food and Drink
Where: 3427 Tuttle Road, Shaker Heights, in Van Aken District.
Contact: 216-230-8022.
Online: http://michaelsgenuine.com/
Hours: Lunch – 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday; dinner – 5-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 5-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
Happy hour: 4-6 p.m. Monday-Friday (half off snacks, cocktails, wines by the glass and beer).
Brunch: 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday.
Prices: Snacks, $6-$9; raw bar, $14-$36 (seafood towers are $48 and $88); small, $9-$19; pizza and pasta, $16-$17; large, $18-$39; sides, $7-$9; dessert, $6-$8.
Reservations: Accepted.
Credit cards: All major.
Cuisine: Very cosmopolitan, from southern U.S to Middle Eastern influences and more.
Accessibility: One floor with high-top, low-top and bar seats.
Grade: ****
Notes: We make two anonymous visits to restaurants we review for dinner, and we do not accept complimentary meals. One star means fair; 2 stars, good; 3 stars, very good; 4 stars, exceptional. (Zero stars: not recommended.)
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