Five Names to Know From Pratt Fashion's Class of 2018

Two hundred looks paraded down the runway at Spring Studios last week, all of them created by students in Pratt’s 2018 graduating class. It was an impressive show of talent which represented very different world views, with wide-ranging inspirations like dark industrialism, bondage, corsetry, and twisted preps. Two designers were singled out by the faculty for awards: Rachel Lee won the opportunity to present her collection in London during Graduate Fashion Week, and Emily Ridings was presented with a $10,000 scholarship.

The thread running through the strongest collections was a sense of playfulness. Craft was highlighted, as were materials, many repurposed. Like established designers, the students were into the “world of interiors”—often using fabrics intended for homewares and furnishings. Several collections exuded a homespun sense of nostalgia, and incorporated personal memorabilia—photographs, patches, and the like—that looked like it could have been found in a poster-hung teenage bedroom. Come as you are.

Here, five names to watch.

Jeremy Wood

Age: 21

From: Raised in Dallas, and spent a lot of my childhood on the North Fork of Long Island

First fashion memory? I had to rack my brain for this question: [It would be] wearing my underwear on my head to make my mom laugh.

Collection concept? The title of my collection is a lyric from a song by Heart, “City Sidewalk, Alone in the Crowd.” The focus is on constructing harmony in dissonance. Through collage of found and repurposed materials, I restructured an assemblage of fragments into contemporary clothing using craft techniques.

Most unusual material used? A hand-embroidered felt tablecloth sourced from a dumpster in Greenpoint, Brooklyn.

Favorite piece? A tailored jacket in a reversed floral brocade. I was really able to push myself by finding the appropriate balance of classic tailoring techniques while structuring a more fragile garment.

What’s next? I hope to meet as many people as I can to share the appreciation I have for my craft. I also hope to explore the many opportunities in the fashion industry, like designing, textile sourcing, and merchandising.

Rachel Lee

Age: 22

From: Born in New Orleans and grew up in New Jersey

First fashion memory: I started making clothes for my American Girl dolls around age 5, I was so intrigued by the idea of making art you could wear.

Collection concept? [It’s an] exploration of my own habitus and connection to the city of New Orleans [and] is inspired by the women in my life who have influenced me while growing up. The collection reflects the physical embodiment of our own cultural capital and provides an answer as to why we are who we are and the reason why everyone is able to have different life experiences based on personal history and family values.

Most unusual material used? Tyvek, a form of paper that doesn’t rip. I chose this because I was experimenting a lot with different fabric manipulations and prints and wanted to translate what was in my sketchbook to something quite literal and tactile—I wanted to explore turning something 2D into 3D.

Favorite piece? My last look, a tablecloth with a cream knit turtleneck. I created my own dinner plate silkscreen and colored it in, similar to a coloring book. Making this piece was such an enjoyable process, inspired by nostalgic Sunday dinners surrounded by family.

What’s next? After showing my collection at Graduate Fashion Week in London next month I plan to pursue a career in design.

Emily Ridings

Age: 21

From: Richmond, Kentucky

First fashion memory? At three years old, insisting on wearing construction style boots everywhere I went. I’ve always been extremely particular about what I wear—for whatever reason, those were my first fashion love.

Collection concept: The title is “Everything Belongs.” I worked with inherited, found, and sourced materials, getting to know their nature in order to understand how they best function. I encouraged the innate qualities of materials with an open mind towards unexpected techniques and solutions. As I accepted the unique character of each piece, led by intuition and uninhibited by expectation, everything became fluid.

Most unusual materials used? Packing tape, paper bags, luggage tags, paper from vintage patterns.

Favorite piece? I don’t have one. I invested myself equally into each garment, so I have very personal relationships with all of them.

What about the basket hoop? That was the first piece I created for the collection. I simply wondered if a basket could be a skirt. I brought the idea to my grandmother, Judy Ridings, who has about 20 years of skilled experience in basket weaving. Together, we engineered a form out of a trampoline, night stand, plant pot, and chicken wire, and began to weave around it from the bottom up. A lot of trial and error went into achieving the correct proportions and closure in order for it to function correctly on a moving body, but we got it there. The skirt is special to me for how it re-contextualizes the material, but also respects the craft of traditional basket weaving techniques. I also love the diverse curiosity it attracts. I’ve gotten to interact with multiple generations and creative fields who all feel connected to it, and I’m excited to continue fostering that sort of connection in the future.

What’s next? My next step is to breathe, spend some time in Kentucky, and probably be back in NYC soon. Wherever I am, I know I’ll be creating.

Talia Leslie

Age: 23

From: Newark, New Jersey

First fashion memory: When a designer named Medina Blair first showed me how to turn my pants into a skirt at the Boys and Girls Club.

Collection concept? The title of my collection is Dreamers, and the inspiration came from the 16 immigrants—including my own family—and children of immigrants, that I interviewed this past summer. Their stories, about how they came to the United States, and how they feel being here as immigrants, drove my collection. I learned just how strong they are and wanted to produce a collection that would not only capture their stories but their essence and personalities well.

Most unusual material used? One that I actually created: I laser cut a pattern into a red rib knit and then fused it to a white rib knit. The weight and texture of the fabric created an interesting visual effect. Also, the fabric was able to maintain its stretch while still holding the laser cut pattern.

Favorite piece? The men’s blue one-sided jumpsuit because of the complexity of the drape and because of the fabric, which I also created. The entire jumpsuit is connected at the side of the right leg. It was very difficult to make and pushed my construction skills in new ways.

What’s next? Outside of finally getting some sleep, [my goal] is to try to gain more visibility for my creations. I also want to be able to get a job or internship [where] I can gain more knowledge about the way fashion brands are run, since I want to have my own in the future.

Qian Wu

Age: 25

From: Born in Minnesota, raised in Shanghai

First fashion memory? Dressing up in my mom’s dress and high heels and walking around the house when I was 3.

Collection concept: The title is “Refusal to Adulthood.” [It’s about the] contrast between the soft and strong parts of people and was inspired by the mixed feelings that I had about graduating and entering the real adult world. The collection depicts a grown-up who has to act strong and face responsibilities, while there’s still a big kid who lives inside.

Most unusual material used? Silicone: I molded the first look with silicone that holds the shape of the human body on the dress. It goes with a bag that I made by dipping black silicone all over a bunny [toy]; a symbolic childhood object that got polluted by the adult world.

Favorite look? A black suit dress with a round shoulder shape. It’s a very simple piece, but the person who wears it can look strong and powerful, but sexy at the same time.

What’s next? Finding a job. Thom Browne has always been my favorite designer, I’m searching for the chance to work for him.

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