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Mack brin rabbit terrine en croute, foie gras, foraged muchrooms at The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Mack brin rabbit terrine en croute, foie gras, foraged muchrooms at The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Venison rack, red wine cabbage, sweet potato, pears at The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Venison rack, red wine cabbage, sweet potato, pears at The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Pastured hen, black truffles, chanterelles, pickled ramps at The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Pastured hen, black truffles, chanterelles, pickled ramps at The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Uni custard with artichokes, lemon confit at The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Uni custard with artichokes, lemon confit at The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Sweet breads, parsnip tarragon, ras al hanout at The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Sweet breads, parsnip tarragon, ras al hanout at The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Mack brin rabbit terrine en croute, foie gras, foraged muchrooms at The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Mack brin rabbit terrine en croute, foie gras, foraged muchrooms at The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Photo: PAUL BUCKOWSKI
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Exterior of The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Exterior of The Blue Hen in the Adelphi Hotel on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2018 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)
Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Desserts at Blue Hen at the Adelphi Hotel in Saratoga Springs.
Desserts at Blue Hen at the Adelphi Hotel in Saratoga Springs.
Photo: Reader-supplied Photos
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Photo: PAUL BUCKOWSKI
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The Blue Hen Restaurant at The Adelphi Hotel on Broadway Wednesday, Sept. 13, 2017 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)
The Blue Hen Restaurant at The Adelphi Hotel on Broadway Wednesday, Sept. 13, 2017 in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)
Photo: Lori Van Buren
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A dish at Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel. (Provided)
A dish at Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel. (Provided)
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A Classic Negroni cocktail at Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel. (Provided)
A Classic Negroni cocktail at Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel. (Provided)
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A small plate of king crab, black garlic and sesame tahini at Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel. (Provided)
A small plate of king crab, black garlic and sesame tahini at Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel. (Provided)
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Roasted oysters with crispy ginger, ponzu and chili oil at Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel. (Provided)
Roasted oysters with crispy ginger, ponzu and chili oil at Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel. (Provided)
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A flatbread at Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel. (Provided)
A flatbread at Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel. (Provided)
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A flatbread at Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel. (Provided)
A flatbread at Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel. (Provided)
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Photo: PAUL BUCKOWSKI
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Continue viewing this slideshow to see other recently reviewed restaurants in Saratoga Springs.
Continue viewing this slideshow to see other recently reviewed restaurants in Saratoga Springs.
Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Farmers Hardware.
35 Maple Ave., Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-934-3444. Web: www.farmershardwaresaratoga.com. Read the review. Dragon bowl with coconut quinoa, roasted sweet potatoes, fried cumin chickpeas, fried egg, Thai peanut dressing, avocado and toasted coconut.
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Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Farmers Hardware.
35 Maple Ave., Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-934-3444. Web: www.farmershardwaresaratoga.com. Read the review. Garden frittata with asparagus, mushrooms, sweet roasted tomatoes, garlic aioli and mixed greens with lemon-mint dressing.
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Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Photo: SKIP DICKSTEIN
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Photo: SKIP DICKSTEIN
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Photo: SKIP DICKSTEIN
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Photo: SKIP DICKSTEIN
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Photo: SKIP DICKSTEIN
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Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Photo: Lori Van Buren
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43 Phila St., Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-581-0777. Web: ronnieandralphies.com. Read review. Branzino with English peas, cauliflower puree, crispy prosciutto, toasted almond, brown butter, truffled pea tendrils and basil puree.
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43 Phila St., Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-581-0777. Web: ronnieandralphies.com. Read review. Branzino with English peas, cauliflower puree, crispy prosciutto, toasted almond, brown
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Photo: Lori Van Buren
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43 Phila St., Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-581-0777. Web: ronnieandralphies.com. Read review. Octopus a la plancha with oranges, gigande, beans, romesco, crispy chorizo and marcona almonds.
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43 Phila St., Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-581-0777. Web: ronnieandralphies.com. Read review. Octopus a la plancha with oranges, gigande, beans, romesco, crispy chorizo and marcona
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Photo: Lori Van Buren
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43 Phila St., Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-581-0777. Web: ronnieandralphies.com. Read review. Chicken liver pate with pickled onion, rasberry, pickled mustard seed which is served with grilled crostini.
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43 Phila St., Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-581-0777. Web: ronnieandralphies.com. Read review. Chicken liver pate with pickled onion, rasberry, pickled mustard seed which is served with
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Photo: Lori Van Buren
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43 Phila St., Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-581-0777. Web: ronnieandralphies.com. Read review. Pork belly steam buns with hoisin, cilantro, sriracha, cucumber and scallions.
43 Phila St., Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-581-0777. Web: ronnieandralphies.com. Read review. Pork belly steam buns with hoisin, cilantro, sriracha, cucumber and scallions.
Photo: Lori Van Buren
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43 Phila St., Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-581-0777. Web: ronnieandralphies.com. Read review. American Wagyu beef tartare with ponzu, caviar, creme fraiche, pickled mustard seed and Saratoga chips.
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43 Phila St., Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-581-0777. Web: ronnieandralphies.com. Read review. American Wagyu beef tartare with ponzu, caviar, creme fraiche, pickled mustard seed and
… more
Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale, Albany Times Union
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale, Albany Times Union
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale, Albany Times Union
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Photo: SKIP DICKSTEIN
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Saratoga Marketplace Lower Level, 454 Broadway, Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-587-1234. Website: http://comforteats.com/. Read our review. Owner and chef Rory Moran with some house specialties on the patio.
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Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Saratoga Marketplace Lower Level, 454 Broadway, Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-587-1234. Website: http://comforteats.com/. Read our review. Server Brie Haley in the dining room.
Saratoga Marketplace Lower Level, 454 Broadway, Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-587-1234. Website: http://comforteats.com/. Read our review. Server Brie Haley in the dining room.
Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Saratoga Marketplace Lower Level, 454 Broadway, Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-587-1234. Website: http://comforteats.com/. Read our review. Comfort Kitchen sign in the Saratoga Marketplace.
Saratoga Marketplace Lower Level, 454 Broadway, Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-587-1234. Website: http://comforteats.com/. Read our review. Comfort Kitchen sign in the Saratoga Marketplace.
Photo: John Carl D’Annibale
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Saratoga Marketplace Lower Level, 454 Broadway, Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-587-1234. Website: http://comforteats.com/. Read our review. Tacos with chipotle chicken, pickled red onion and cilantro topped with avocado crema served inside corn tortillas.
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Photo: Cindy Schultz
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Saratoga Marketplace Lower Level, 454 Broadway, Saratoga Springs. Phone: 518-587-1234. Website: http://comforteats.com/. Read our review. House-made pickles including garlic dill, bread and butter, beets, red onion, zucchini and squash.
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Photo: Lori Van Buren
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Celebrity chef David Burke named culinary director for Adelphi Group
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SARATOGA SPRINGS — “This will be about thinking fresh,” said celebrity chef David Burke.
Sitting in the dining room of The Blue Hen restaurant at the sumptuously renovated Adelphi Hotel last week, Burke, 55, was speaking specifically about sourcing ingredients from local farms once the growing season starts.
But he was also, if unintentionally, summing up the attitude he’s trying to instill in staff at the Adelphi and the Salt & Char steakhouse next door. Both are owned by Saratoga-based Adelphi Hospitality Group, of which Burke has just been named culinary director.
A little later, Burke — who has been associated with dozens of restaurants over the past 30 years, is a cookbook author and has made many appearances on the Food Network — said, “We’re putting new systems in place, rethinking the way things have been done.”
Most obvious for customers are new menus for both restaurants and for Morrissey’s Lounge, as the Adelphi’s bar is called. They include Burke signatures such as Clothesline Bacon, an $18 appetizer at Salt & Char with thick slices of cured pork belly slung across what looks like a miniature clothesline; roasted chicken seasoned in a brine that incorporates seaweed; and a $16 potato topped with a lobster tail and splashed with lobster-infused sour cream, called the Sour Lobster Baked Potato.
Salt & Char also serves among its beef choices three large prime-grade steaks, from 24 to 36 ounces and costing $90 to $125, that have been dry-aged in a cooler lined with blocks of Himalayan salt that was built to Burke’s specification by Allen Brothers, a top meat supplier in Chicago and a relationship holdover from when Burke had a steakhouse in the Windy City.
The process is proprietary enough to have its own patent, and the menu lists the number: “7,998,517 B2.”
“But this isn’t only about special-occasion nights,” said Burke, whose appointment by the Adelphi Group has been rumored for months but was not finalized until recently. He cited as an example $20 burger-and-a-beer specials and other promotions to lure area residents during quieter months.
The hiring of Burke by the Adelphi Hospitality Group is an attempt to bring stability to an extravagantly expensive project — more than $30 million for the hotel and Salt & Char, according to published reports — with culinary operations beset by difficulty behind the scenes even as diners and critics swooned over top-flight food and drink.
Since long before Salt & Char opened in July 2016, AHG was intent on finding a marquee chef to head its food-service operations in Saratoga and perhaps at future properties it hopes to build. Its first attempt, with internationally acclaimed chef Gray Kunz,ended embarrassingly when a disaffected Kunz left within months of Salt & Char’s debut and more than a year before the opening of the Adelphi.
Kunz’s immediate successor, Braden Reardon, who had been running Salt & Char on a day-to-day basis under Kunz, stepped up to oversee development of the hotel’s food service. Reardon resigned in January.
Burke said he visited Saratoga and the Adelphi five years ago at the invitation of executives from AHG’s parent company, Richbell Capital, a real-estate firm that bought the hotel in 2012 as its first venture into the hospitality field. Richbell has offices in Saratoga, New York City and Washington. Sources familiar with AHG’s thinking said it first approached top restaurant names with a connection to Saratoga: Danny Meyer, whose Union Square Hospitality Group includes major Manhattan restaurants and the Shake Shack chain, which has a location at Saratoga Race Course; and celebrity chef Bobby Flay, a thoroughbred owner and regular visitor to Saratoga and the track. After those negotiations fizzled, Kunz became the signature chef for AHG.
Burke and Jean Marie Philippou, Adelphi project coordinator for AHG, said Burke was the company’s first choice from the beginning, but he then was involved in a business partnership uninterested in expansion.
“The time was right, and I was able to do it now,” Burke said.
Burke has an extensive resumé dating back to receiving, at age 26, three stars from The New York Times in 1988 as executive chef of the River Café in Brooklyn. His first restaurant under his own name, davidburke & donatella, opened in 2003 on Manhattan’s Upper East Side. In 2015 he joined ESquared Hospitality, which has about a dozen restaurant concepts including BLT Prime inside the Trump International Hotel in Washington, where President Donald J. Trump has dined.
Burke was quoted last fall as denying the rumor that Trump put ketchup in his steak, which he prefers well done. The ketchup, Burke told the website DC Eater, “most likely … was for his fries.”
(Confusingly, three restaurant concepts launched by Burke and with his name still on them are owned by Craveable Hospitality Group, the new name of what was once called David Burke Group; Burke, no longer affiliated with Craveable or any of its concepts, is said to be in litigation with the company over his name.)
Burke’s contract with AHG calls for him to supervise all things culinary for the Saratoga restaurants, bar and banquets the venues host. He will be a regular presence in Saratoga, he said, but is installing separate head chefs for Salt & Char and the Adelphi to manage day-to-day food service. He said the agreement with AHG does not include provisions to develop food service at future company hotels, which AHG said it plans to develop but has not yet identified publicly.
“I don’t have right of first refusal,” Burke said. “But I would imagine once you take something like this … and help it succeed, I don’t see why they wouldn’t ask us to continue. I like to align myself with corporations and partners that are looking to expand anyway, move on to other things eventually, once things have gone well, so we keep that in the back of our head.”
For now, he is focused on Salt & Char and the Adelphi.
“This is a beautiful hotel. They put a lot of money into it — they did it correctly — and it should succeed,” Burke said. “I’d like to see this around for 50 years, another 100 or whatever it is, and be part of building this to get there.”
[email protected] ■ 518-454-5489 ■ blog.timesunion.com/tablehopping ■ @Tablehopping ■ facebook.com/SteveBarnesFoodCritic
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