H&M’s Conscious Exclusive Collection with Christy Turlington Burns.
As one of the most visible fashion retailers in the world, with vast resources at its disposal, the H&M Group (H&M, COS, & Other Stories, Weekday and Monki) has the capability to truly sway commerce. The Swedish firm, which was founded in 1947, grew immensely in the ’90s by offering runway-ready pieces at bargain price points, altering how clothes were purchased by the masses. Indeed, along with Inditex (which owns Zara), Gap Inc. and others, the H&M Group—particularly H&M—made looking stylish accessible to those couldn’t afford the astronomical sums presented by designer labels.
As a result, fast-fashion took hold of the industry, and with that came the appetite to offer apparel and accessories at a rapid rate—to feed the best, so to speak. And to do this while still remaining profitable, many companies began cutting corners, administering unsafe labor practices abroad and using synthetic fibers that have proven to be ecologically damaging.
Apparently, according to the brand, H&M has stayed above the fray. In a 124-page report, the firm outlined its history, strategy and trajectory on leading the charge for sustainability in fashion. It’ll also be launching the seventh edition of its Conscious Exclusive Collection—a line that uses 100% regenerated nylon fiber and recycled silver—on April 19th with Christy Turlington Burns as its face. After a string of controversies over a racially insensitive image and a copyright lawsuit, this announcement looks as if it is trying to temper the public outcry. Though, to its credit, fostering an eco-friendly mindset has been a longstanding policy.
H&M’s Conscious Exclusive Collection with Christy Turlington Burns.
Here to elaborate on the H&M Group’s focus on sustainability is Anna Gedda, the head of sustainability at H&M.
How would you describe the state of the fashion industry today?
The fashion industry today has a big voice in the world, which is great because that means we also have the ability to be heard and effect change that can be beneficial for the whole planet. We are at a time when access to information is everywhere and people can be more involved with brands and designers via social media like never before, and this, to us, is very interesting. Without a doubt, we are living during interesting times due to technological progress that are changing what the industry looks like. Looking ahead, we see great innovations in materials and great breakthroughs in chemical textile and textile recycling technologies that will redefine the industry in the future.
Where would you categorize the H&M Group in the industry?
We want to be and be seen as leaders in the industry; that we are making big goals in order to work toward a more sustainable fashion future. We want to lead the change towards circular and renewable fashion while being a fair and equal company.
For so long, fast-fashion brands have been marked for their lack of sustainability and corrupt labor practices. What is the H&M Group’s stance on this?
We cannot talk on behalf of others, but in our case, it has always been of utmost importance that our products are made under good working conditions and with consideration to the environment, health and safety. We have been working in all these areas for many years. Even when we compete on the street level with other players, there shouldn’t be any competition when it comes to sustainability. This is a time when we should all be working collaboratively to effect industry wide change and make big impacts together. We want to be known as a leader in sustainability, where we not only talk the talk, but we walk the walk and pave the way.
How do you define sustainability?
To provide fashion and quality at the best price in a sustainable way, we have to change the way fashion is made and enjoyed today. We want to lead the change toward circular and renewable fashion, while being a fair and equal company. Maybe here I would redefine the question: To us, sustainability is everything we do as company, all our actions, to take responsibility on the impact we have on people and workers along the value chain, and also on the planet and natural resources needed to create our collections. When we define sustainability, we always take a long-term vision of the business, so we use the resources not only in a way to meet the demand of present generation, but also future generations. And if we want to continue to be relevant for future generations, we have to think how fashion is made and enjoyed today.
What drove the company to become labor and eco-conscious?
The H&M group has a long history of working with sustainability, dating back to the 90s. For us, it has always been important to act in a way that makes it possible not just for present, but also for future generations to enjoy fashion. We regularly lift our ambitions to the next level to push the boundaries.
What is the company doing to be more sustainable year after year?
We have 3 significant future facing goals that we are working on, which are: By 2020, all of the cotton that H&M uses will come from more sustainable sources. We are one of the biggest users of organic cotton and recycled cotton and we are the biggest buyer of Better Cotton. By 2030, all of the products that H&M makes will come from more sustainable or recycled sources. We are one the biggest users of recycled polyester and in this year’s Conscious Exclusive collection we use Econyl which is 100% regenerated nylon fiber made from fishnets and other nylon waste. By 2040, H&M will be climate positive across its entire value chain. A truly circular business model can only be powered by renewable energy. Today we are at 96%.
How would you describe the Conscious Exclusive Collection? How does this line differ from other collections in the H&M Group?
The H&M Conscious Exclusive collections are recurring fashion collections in the forefront of H&M’s sustainability work. The collections aim to move H&M’s fashion and sustainability development and innovation forward towards a sustainable fashion future. The collections are made from sustainable materials and offer our design team an opportunity to experiment with new, interesting sustainable materials. The Conscious Exclusive Collection for 2018 is inspired by famous the Swedish artists’ Karin and Carl Larsson’s creative and beautiful home in the province of Dalarna, Sweden. Handcrafted tapestries and embroideries, Karin’s love for their garden, as well as the contrasting characteristics of the rooms in the house have been interpreted by H&M’s Conscious Exclusive Design team into prints, jacquards and embroideries on beautifully crafted garments and accessories made from sustainable materials.
H&M’s Conscious Exclusive Collection.
Do you think the average consumer really cares about buying a sustainable product? Do you think being a sustainable firm will help the bottom line?
Our customers and fans are really into our Conscious Exclusive collection every year, and we know that there is a lot of interest in more sustainable materials in our everyday offering as well. We need to move towards a more circular model for the future for the long-term sustainability of the not only the planet but the business as well.
When do you think the H&M Group 100% sustainable?
We have developed a strong roadmap to achieve our sustainability vision and this roadmap includes all the goals we are working towards. Our goal to only use sustainable cotton by 2020, our aim to only use recycled and other sustainably sourced materials by 2030, our ambition to become climate positive by 2040 are some examples. But on a daily basis, we also address many other areas, such as wages, as we constantly visit our suppliers by our dedicated teams based in our productions offices. By 2018, our goal was to set up democratically elected worker representative committees and improved wage management systems at suppliers representing 50% of our product volume.
The company says that it is “leading the change.” Do you really think others—with fewer resources—will follow suit?
Sustainability is not a matter of how big or small a company is, but we play different roles. As we are a global company, we have the capability to influence. But we want to influence the industry as whole towards a sustainable fashion future, not just our own business. With this we mean that other players are not excluded, in fact we collaborate on an industry level when it comes to sustainability, since we all face the same challenges.
Follow Barry Samaha on Twitter (@barry_samaha) and Instagram (@barrysamaha).
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H&M’s Conscious Exclusive Collection with Christy Turlington Burns.
As one of the most visible fashion retailers in the world, with vast resources at its disposal, the H&M Group (H&M, COS, & Other Stories, Weekday and Monki) has the capability to truly sway commerce. The Swedish firm, which was founded in 1947, grew immensely in the ’90s by offering runway-ready pieces at bargain price points, altering how clothes were purchased by the masses. Indeed, along with Inditex (which owns Zara), Gap Inc. and others, the H&M Group—particularly H&M—made looking stylish accessible to those couldn’t afford the astronomical sums presented by designer labels.
As a result, fast-fashion took hold of the industry, and with that came the appetite to offer apparel and accessories at a rapid rate—to feed the best, so to speak. And to do this while still remaining profitable, many companies began cutting corners, administering unsafe labor practices abroad and using synthetic fibers that have proven to be ecologically damaging.
Apparently, according to the brand, H&M has stayed above the fray. In a 124-page report, the firm outlined its history, strategy and trajectory on leading the charge for sustainability in fashion. It’ll also be launching the seventh edition of its Conscious Exclusive Collection—a line that uses 100% regenerated nylon fiber and recycled silver—on April 19th with Christy Turlington Burns as its face. After a string of controversies over a racially insensitive image and a copyright lawsuit, this announcement looks as if it is trying to temper the public outcry. Though, to its credit, fostering an eco-friendly mindset has been a longstanding policy.
H&M’s Conscious Exclusive Collection with Christy Turlington Burns.
Here to elaborate on the H&M Group’s focus on sustainability is Anna Gedda, the head of sustainability at H&M.
How would you describe the state of the fashion industry today?
The fashion industry today has a big voice in the world, which is great because that means we also have the ability to be heard and effect change that can be beneficial for the whole planet. We are at a time when access to information is everywhere and people can be more involved with brands and designers via social media like never before, and this, to us, is very interesting. Without a doubt, we are living during interesting times due to technological progress that are changing what the industry looks like. Looking ahead, we see great innovations in materials and great breakthroughs in chemical textile and textile recycling technologies that will redefine the industry in the future.
Where would you categorize the H&M Group in the industry?
We want to be and be seen as leaders in the industry; that we are making big goals in order to work toward a more sustainable fashion future. We want to lead the change towards circular and renewable fashion while being a fair and equal company.
For so long, fast-fashion brands have been marked for their lack of sustainability and corrupt labor practices. What is the H&M Group’s stance on this?
We cannot talk on behalf of others, but in our case, it has always been of utmost importance that our products are made under good working conditions and with consideration to the environment, health and safety. We have been working in all these areas for many years. Even when we compete on the street level with other players, there shouldn’t be any competition when it comes to sustainability. This is a time when we should all be working collaboratively to effect industry wide change and make big impacts together. We want to be known as a leader in sustainability, where we not only talk the talk, but we walk the walk and pave the way.
How do you define sustainability?
To provide fashion and quality at the best price in a sustainable way, we have to change the way fashion is made and enjoyed today. We want to lead the change toward circular and renewable fashion, while being a fair and equal company. Maybe here I would redefine the question: To us, sustainability is everything we do as company, all our actions, to take responsibility on the impact we have on people and workers along the value chain, and also on the planet and natural resources needed to create our collections. When we define sustainability, we always take a long-term vision of the business, so we use the resources not only in a way to meet the demand of present generation, but also future generations. And if we want to continue to be relevant for future generations, we have to think how fashion is made and enjoyed today.
What drove the company to become labor and eco-conscious?
The H&M group has a long history of working with sustainability, dating back to the 90s. For us, it has always been important to act in a way that makes it possible not just for present, but also for future generations to enjoy fashion. We regularly lift our ambitions to the next level to push the boundaries.
What is the company doing to be more sustainable year after year?
We have 3 significant future facing goals that we are working on, which are: By 2020, all of the cotton that H&M uses will come from more sustainable sources. We are one of the biggest users of organic cotton and recycled cotton and we are the biggest buyer of Better Cotton. By 2030, all of the products that H&M makes will come from more sustainable or recycled sources. We are one the biggest users of recycled polyester and in this year’s Conscious Exclusive collection we use Econyl which is 100% regenerated nylon fiber made from fishnets and other nylon waste. By 2040, H&M will be climate positive across its entire value chain. A truly circular business model can only be powered by renewable energy. Today we are at 96%.
How would you describe the Conscious Exclusive Collection? How does this line differ from other collections in the H&M Group?
The H&M Conscious Exclusive collections are recurring fashion collections in the forefront of H&M’s sustainability work. The collections aim to move H&M’s fashion and sustainability development and innovation forward towards a sustainable fashion future. The collections are made from sustainable materials and offer our design team an opportunity to experiment with new, interesting sustainable materials. The Conscious Exclusive Collection for 2018 is inspired by famous the Swedish artists’ Karin and Carl Larsson’s creative and beautiful home in the province of Dalarna, Sweden. Handcrafted tapestries and embroideries, Karin’s love for their garden, as well as the contrasting characteristics of the rooms in the house have been interpreted by H&M’s Conscious Exclusive Design team into prints, jacquards and embroideries on beautifully crafted garments and accessories made from sustainable materials.
H&M’s Conscious Exclusive Collection.
Do you think the average consumer really cares about buying a sustainable product? Do you think being a sustainable firm will help the bottom line?
Our customers and fans are really into our Conscious Exclusive collection every year, and we know that there is a lot of interest in more sustainable materials in our everyday offering as well. We need to move towards a more circular model for the future for the long-term sustainability of the not only the planet but the business as well.
When do you think the H&M Group 100% sustainable?
We have developed a strong roadmap to achieve our sustainability vision and this roadmap includes all the goals we are working towards. Our goal to only use sustainable cotton by 2020, our aim to only use recycled and other sustainably sourced materials by 2030, our ambition to become climate positive by 2040 are some examples. But on a daily basis, we also address many other areas, such as wages, as we constantly visit our suppliers by our dedicated teams based in our productions offices. By 2018, our goal was to set up democratically elected worker representative committees and improved wage management systems at suppliers representing 50% of our product volume.
The company says that it is “leading the change.” Do you really think others—with fewer resources—will follow suit?
Sustainability is not a matter of how big or small a company is, but we play different roles. As we are a global company, we have the capability to influence. But we want to influence the industry as whole towards a sustainable fashion future, not just our own business. With this we mean that other players are not excluded, in fact we collaborate on an industry level when it comes to sustainability, since we all face the same challenges.
Follow Barry Samaha on Twitter (@barry_samaha) and Instagram (@barrysamaha).
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